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Blind tasting is a very odd activity. Contrary to what many imagine, it has nothing to do with blindfolds. It involves tasting a wine without seeing the label and it can deliver shocking surprises. I tasted seven non-vintage champagnes blind with a group of professionals recently. There was horror when they discovered the wine most of them preferred carried a label they regarded as their least favourite. That sort of result is especially common with champagne, arguably the most image-driven – rather than quality-driven – wine of all. But it happens all the time when wine is tasted blind.

 
盲品(blind tasting)并不是大多数人想象中的蒙着眼睛品酒,而是通过纯品尝而非看酒标来对葡萄酒进行评价。这是一种奇特的活动,因为它常常为参与者带来无比的震撼。最近,我与一组专业人士对七款无年份香槟(non-vintage Champagne)进行了盲品,而最终的结果令这些人士如坐针毡,因为他们发现在盲品中很多中意的酒款,居然是自己在平日饮用时最看不上的那些。由于卖相常常比质量更具影响力,这样的结果在香槟的盲品中尤其正常,不过在几乎所有葡萄酒的盲品中,这种事情也时常发生。
Because I’m interested in how wines really taste as opposed to how I think they should, I taste wine blind as often as I can, especially when assessing similar young wines. But blind tasting when you know absolutely nothing about the wine in front of you is something completely different. The notoriously difficult Master of Wine exams include three sessions during which you have a dozen glasses in front of you and nothing more helpful than a printed exam paper asking you to identify each wine as closely as possible, and assess its quality.
为什么盲品结果与正常品尝结果常常相悖呢?出于对此事的好奇,我平常也尽可能多地进行盲品,尤其在评价风格相似的年轻葡萄酒时。不过,对一款未提供任何信息的葡萄酒进行品尝是一件非同寻常的事情:令人“闻风丧胆”的葡萄酒大师(Master of Wine)考试就包含有三场盲品环节,应试者需要在答题纸上写出与样品酒实际情况尽可能相近的信息以及质量评价,而他们仅有的工具只是自己面前的十二只酒杯而已。
Now that the MW is behind me, I taste wine completely blind only very rarely, and never in public. (When I started out in wine everyone expected me to get it wrong and noticed only when I got it right – today the reverse is true.) So my blind tastings these days are round the dinner table with good friends – and once a year when I act as a judge, with Hugh Johnson, in the Oxford v Cambridge wine-tasting competition.
考虑到头上顶着葡萄酒大师的光环,我极少做完全的盲品,而且从来不在公开场合进行(刚入行时,我出不出错别人都无所谓;现在恰恰相反,有不少人等着我出错呢——我可不能给别人这个机会),因此最近我的几场盲品都是在餐桌前与好朋友一起进行的。除此之外,我还会与休•约翰逊(Hugh Johnson)在一年一度的牛津—剑桥葡萄酒盲品赛(Oxford v Cambridge wine-tasting competition)中担任评委。
This is the most extraordinary varsity match, always held well before the Boat Race but taken just as seriously nowadays. This year’s taste-off took place at the end of last month, as usual in the Oxford and Cambridge Club on Pall Mall in London. The teams of six plus a reserve had been training since the beginning of the academic year. The Cambridge coach, a past competitor who has served in the US army in Iraq and signs himself “Major Dave”, put them through five blind tastings a week in the month leading up to the match.
牛津—剑桥葡萄酒盲品赛是最特别的比赛,常常在赛艇(Boat Race)之前举办,其隆重程度也丝毫不逊于赛艇。今年的比赛场地仍旧是位于伦敦(London)蓓尔美尔街(Pall Mall)的牛津剑桥俱乐部(the Oxford and Cambridge Club)。为了在比赛中获得胜利,每支队伍的六名选手外加一名预备选手自学年伊始就开始接受训练。剑桥(Cambridge)队的教练是该项赛事的往届选手,由于曾在驻伊拉克(Iraq)美军服役而自称戴夫少校(Major Dave),此君在比赛当月开始就为队员们安排每周五次的盲品,可谓不打无准备之仗。
The Oxford coach, historian Hanneke Wilson, inflicts a similar routine, including a 12-bottle tasting under match conditions every Saturday afternoon. Captain of her team was Brunei-born biophysicist Ren Lim, whom I had met at last year’s competition where he was crowned top taster. Another alumnus of the Oxford team, Alex Hunt, now a Master of Wine and professional wine buyer, told me how he’d been drafted in to organise some practice tasting this year and Ren had nailed a 2011 Pinot Grigio from Collio precisely. Such precision, I should report, is rare.
身为牛津(Oxford)队教练的历史学家哈内克•威尔森(Hanneke Wilson)也毫不怠慢,每周六下午,她都为队员们组织十二款酒盲品的实战演练。其麾下的前任队长苒琳(Ren Lim) 是一位出生于文莱(Brunei)的生物物理学家,曾在
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